The Right Tree for Your Lawn-Planting Trees to Help Improve Chesapeake Bay Water Quality (FS-1029)

Consider where you want to plant your trees and how big they will grow. Avoid planting too close to sidewalks, driveways, foundations, septic systems, as roots can buckle concrete or asphalt or get into a septic field. Do not plant under utility lines since limbs can interfere with power lines.

If you are looking for trees that can serve as a privacy screen, consider ones that are evergreen and/or do not grow as tall. If you want trees to shade your house to reduce summer temperatures and decrease energy usage, consider species that have a wide crown and grow quickly. As a tree grows, it should not restrict visibility near intersections or driveways. Think about any spring flowers the trees might produce or the color of their fall foliage.

Whether you are purchasing native species of trees (Table 1) from a local nursery or online, you will need to know what size and quantity to buy. Table 2 summarizes some of the advantages and disadvantages of each type of tree. For large areas such as a field, bare root seedlings may be the most cost effective choice. They are inexpensive, easily transported, and simple to plant. However, seedlings also are easily mowed over and prone to animal predators, such as deer. Tree tubes or flags may be necessary to minimize damage.

Small container-grown trees such as quart or gallon containers, are relatively inexpensive and easily transported. Larger container-grown trees, such as 10-gallon ‘pots’ are more costly and difficult to transport. Larger balled and burlapped trees can be very heavy and you may need additional assistance or special equipment to transport and plant them.

• Dig a hole. A good rule-of-thumb is to dig the hole at least twice the size of the container. It is better to slope the sides of the hole because it is easier to adjust the tree’s position in the hole and properly pack the soil around the roots. The hole should not be deeper than the “root collar” which is the point at the base of the where tree begins to widen out (figure 1). The root collar indicates where the top of the soil was while the tree was growing at the nursery.
   
• Prepare the tree. It is important to keep bare root trees moist until ready for planting. While you are digging the hole, you can place them root side down in a bucket of water for up to 3 hours to prevent the roots from drying out.
  
  Place container-grown plants next to the hole on their side and gently press on the outside of the container to make it easier to remove the tree. Once out of the container, break up the soil and root matrix that formed while the plant was in the container before filling the hole. This will ensure maximum root contact with the soil.
  
  If the roots remain wrapped in the shape of the container on smaller plants, use a knife or garden trowel to score it evenly around the sides and in an X on the bottom to free up the roots (figure 2).
   
• Set the tree. Place the tree at the bottom of the hole in the center. You may need someone to hold bare root or balled and burlapped trees in place and straight. Dig out or fill in the hole until the root collar is even with the top edge of the hole.
   
• Replace the soil. Once the hole is the right depth, gently place the soil back in the hole making sure there are no large clumps of soil or air pockets around the root ball. Periodically press the soil firmly into place, especially against the roots to ensure there are no open areas which can affect the roots or cause the soil to slump.
  
  As you fill in the hole, make sure the tree remains vertical. If it needs to be adjusted, compact the soil again after it has been moved. Once you completely fill in the hole, water the tree until the soil is saturated.
   
• Mulch around the tree. Mulch helps reduce weed growth and maintain soil moisture. Once the water has soaked into the ground, place a 2 to 3-inch deep layer of mulch around the tree. Do not place mulch up against the base of tree since this can affect bark development and create an environment where certain insects and fungus can damage the tree. It is best to leave an area about 3 to 4 inches wide around the trunk with no mulch.

• Watering. Until the roots become established, be sure to gently water the tree regularly during the growing season, especially during hot, dry periods. During the first year, weekly watering of approximately 1 inch is recommended. Apply the water slowly to allow it to soak into the soil, ensuring that the soil is moist and the water gets down to the roots. Overwatering can make the soil loose and may harm the tree.
   
• Fertilizing. University of Maryland Extension does not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees.
   
• Staking. The decision to stake a newly planted tree depends on its size. Larger trees are more easily affected by wind. If you stake your tree, do not use uncovered rope or wire that can cut into the bark. The University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center has a fact sheet (HG 24 - Planting Tips for Trees) that offers information on tree staking dos and don'ts.
   
• Pruning. Each tree species responds differently to pruning so it is best to consult with the nursery where you bought the tree or with a professional arborist before pruning.

• University of MD Extension Home and Garden Information Center. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/trees-and-shrubs-home-garden
• Arbor Day Foundation, How to Plant Your Trees. http://www.arborday.org/trees/planting/
• MD Dept. of Natural Resources Trees webpage. http://www.dnr.state.md.us/forests/Pages/default.aspx
• Slattery, Britt E., Kathryn Reshetiloff, and Susan M. Zwicker. 2003. Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping: Chesapeake Bay Watershed. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Chesapeake Bay Field Office, Annapolis, MD. 82 pp. https://www.fws.gov/sites/default/files/documents/native-plants-for-wildlife-habitat-and-conservation-landscaping-in-the-chesapeake-bay-watershed.pdf